Carpe Diem!

Puerto Bertrand – Cochrane, Chile

Kind of a bittersweet ride today. 

We lost Greg Williams. Greg was a pretty dedicated member of our blog community, a great friend and a big cheerleader for Diana and I and for good in the world generally.

Greg had a big, generous heart. Not the one beating in his chest. That was just some borrowed tissue he received a number of years ago as part of a heart transplant surgery. No, I mean the metamorphical heart that Greg has always had – that drove him to spread joy and make the world a better place for everyone around him. 

After the surgery, Greg took up e-mountain biking. He embraced healthy living and was a great advocate for trails and year-round exercise. We enjoyed many a breakfast plotting ways to create events and opportunities for more people to enjoy the outdoors. 

He had a big gap-toothed smile and an infectious love of life. 

I didn’t see it until after he passed, but just in the last day or two, Greg had this to say in response to Diana’s post about my birthday (in which she included the picture below,of me drinking raw milk a few months ago in Colombia):

Happy Happy Duude!

That picture says it ALL!

It’s like full circle Baby! You Two have an even More incredible time tonight than you Usually Do!! I think it’s time to switch to Beer now . . .

Carpe Diem

Peace, Love, LIFE!!!

Boom

G

Sad that I didn’t see this until after he left us and I never had a chance to respond . . .

We will miss Greg terribly. 

Now, the inclination might be to skip our post and our pictures and such today. But I know that’s not what Greg would want. He always wanted to see everyone out living life to the fullest. So I think the best way to honor his spirit is to keep posting, keep getting out there, and keep laughing and smiling. 

And, I think the way Greg would look at it is that he had nine years of bonus time after his surgery. The lesson he learned – and tried to teach all of us – is that every day is a gift and it is important to live every day to the fullest . . .

Thankfully, I have a partner who also lives with this spirit and helps me keep going even when, left to my own devices, I might just sit on the couch . . .

So here goes . . .

Was pretty cold today. Probably 30 when we started riding. 

As usual, though, it was incredibly beautiful here in Patagonia. The copious rain that fell yesterday in Puerto Bertrand translated to snow-flocked trees on the mountains this morning. 

We had a few adventures along the way . . .

We ran into a herd of cattle coming at us on the Carretera – complete with herding dogs and a real-life cowboy.

Later, as we entered Patagonia National Park we happened upon seven guanacos. I guess guanacos are to llamas what wolves are to dogs – the wild version before people domesticated them. Easy to see how they might have ended up domesticated because they don’t seem to have any fear of humans . . .

So I guess we stand corrected – there are actually wild animals in Chile. 

Fun to see.

Our plan had been to get to the town of Cochrane, re-stock on food and stuff, bike another 5-6 miles, and then camp someplace in the wilderness.

We made it to Cochrane okay. We went to the grocery store and bought some supplies. But I haven’t been feeling great the last few days and I wasn’t feeling great as we shopped. When I revealed this to Diana she went out to the bikes to grab some Tylenol for me. (Diana’s general theory is that illness is an inconvenience that can be ignored if you just take some medication . . .)

But when she came back in, she informed me that it was raining out. 

Turns out we can switch gears pretty quickly if we need to . . .  

Camping at 29 degrees is a challenge no matter what. Camping at 29 degrees while not feeling great is kind of a bummer. Camping at 29 degrees while it’s raining and you don’t feel good: well, that’s just dumb . . .

Diana found an Airbnb, we cooked up a nice dinner of pork chops, cabbage, rice and squash – and we’re currently in a warm room with a roof over our heads – ready to fight another day. 

We have about 80 miles left to Caleta Tortel now. And there are no more Airbnbs, cabanas, hotels, or otherwise between here and there. In other words, tomorrow will definitely be a night in a tent – with low temperatures again in the 20s. 

But the additional time in Cochrane allowed us to better prepare. We found a general store in town, bought an additional blanket (because our sleeping bag is good until maybe 40?), and some big, thick grandma type socks that we converted into “over boots” for our bike shoes. The trick was to cut the top off so they fit over the shoes, and then cut a hole in the bottom for our cleats. No more cold toes with those things on. The only problem is that they are like the Wicked Witch – they can’t get wet; will just become a big glob of wet cotton. But hopefully that won’t be an issue. Not supposed to rain again for a few days . . . 

We also added some pogie type things – chopped up pop bottles – to our handlebars – with the thought that they’ll help keep our hands warm by blocking some of the wind . . . 

Between the blanket, the over boots, and the pogies we at least feel a little more ready for the cold that’s in front of us . . .

Two more days and we should be at the ferry . . .

BOOM!!!

Love you, Greg!