Pura Vida

Quepos – Palmar Sur, Costa Rica

I was a little hesitant about the naturalist idea yesterday. I love the feeling that we are discovering things for ourselves – and the “guide” idea can feel a little bit like cheating. It’s especially bad if the guide turns out to be one of those know-it-all type people who talk down to you. Or, worse, if they seem downright bored with their job . . . The taco tour guy in Mexico City was a little like this . . .

As it turned out, our guide, Bruce, was great. It felt like he was excited about finding stuff as much as we were. 

But I will say that sometimes things just work out – even without a guide – and when they do, like today, those are the best days ever . . .

Today was great right out of the gate. Started with our own pancakes and eggs at the airbnb – and then we were on the road early. 

The ride out of Quepos takes you right by the police station type thing – and as we rode by a few of the CHIPS style motorcycles started up and were basically riding along with us. As we turned onto the main road they turned as well – turning their flashers on as they did so. 

We’re riding down the road and pretty soon we’re commenting on how little traffic there is. And everyone is so excited to see us. Apparently people around here are in a great mood on Tuesday mornings.

”Arriba, arriba,” they yell. 

We arrive at an intersection and there are more police and they aren’t letting any traffic on the main road. 

We confer on whether there might be an accident up ahead.

And then the lightbulb …

It’s the Vuelta. We saw the first day of it when we first arrived in Costa Rica – but it’s a ten day event. We ask someone along the side of the road.

”The racers are coming in about ten minutes . . .”

We keep biking along – and more and more people are cheering for us. 

“Prima” or “Primera,” they say. “You’re in first!”

This is fun. We bike for about fifteen minutes on our own personal race course – with fans cheering for us the whole way. 

We finally stop, get a spot by the side of the road, and about 30 seconds later the racers come through. Wow! They are moving! It’s very flat and it’s near the start of the stage – they must be going about 30 to 35 miles per hour. Good thing we got going early . . .

We didn’t see a monkey or a sloth or anything yet – but stumbling upon the Vuelta – again – was pretty darn cool. Great way to start the day.

Okay – but after some pretty amazing biking we did see monkeys. First, another of the capuchin variety – that we saw yesterday as well. And then – maybe fifteen minutes later – several more monkeys – this time more black in color. 

And then the waterfalls. 

Reality is we haven’t seen many waterfalls on this whole trip, really. The problem is that to see waterfalls you generally have to bike up and it is generally not on the way anywhere. Purely extra. 

But in Costa Rica there are apparently so many waterfalls that some of them just happen to be right on the road. We saw two of them like this today. The second one was absolutely amazing! Set back about 100 yards off of the road – just far enough so passing cars wouldn’t see because they’re whizzing along so quickly. But close enough that a slower bicycle rider is likely to notice it. (I guarantee you the peloton missed out – the downside of going so fast . . .)

By this time in the day – after lunch when it is as hot as it’s going to be – Diana is wilting and doesn’t partake. But I am loving it. There is no one around so I’m able to completely skinny dip – with the only fear being that a monkey might come along. Awesome shower-like effect when you lie back into the spray!

I will admit that the thought crossed my mind that there might be snakes in the water. Bruce was telling us yesterday about all the different kinds of snakes in Costa Rica. And he was telling us about dumb tourists that he’s seen – planning to take a picture of some exotic plant – only to realize too late that they are about to step on a poisonous reptile . . .

But this water was so crystal clear, and was moving so fast, that I decided that it was unlikely a snake would be lurking . . .

And anyway, even if I was to be snakebit, I have a high-powered medico ready to come to my aid at a moment’s notice . . .

After the second waterfall we arrive at Palmar Sur – the last town before we head to the “lodge” Diana has booked for us for the night. We find an ice cream place – which is great for both of us – but especially for Diana. 

When we arrived, she kind of resembled a beautiful flower that hasn’t been watered recently and is wilting in the sun. By the time we left the flower was in fulll bloom once again – and now Diana is pushing the pace to get to the end of the day. The wonders of helados – it’s like a magic elixir!

But before we have even started from the restaurant Diana shouts out that there are scarlet macaws. It’s crazy. There are like ten scarlet macaws in one tree. They’re eating some nuts, dropping the remains (some of which ended up hitting me and my bike) and calling out raucously – obviously enjoying themselves!

Eventually we have taken pictures from every possible angle – and we head out to the La Muñequita Lodge – where we’re staying tonight. Super cool. Our host, Heyner, greets us as we bike in on the rocky dirt road. 

He shows us to our casa for the evening. It’s basically a treehouse pieced together in the jungle. There’s some lumber – but mostly it’s a bunch of sticks lashed together with a few boards for a floor. But there’s a roof, a shower, a toilet, and a bed with mosquito netting. And Heyner’s wife, Jenny, is making us dinner. 

Oh yeah. When he tells Jenny that we would like dinner at 5:30 he calls her his La Muñequita – Little Doll. Thus, the name of the lodge . . . They have been married forty years and he always calls her La Muñequita – except when they are having an argument. Only then does he use her given name.

Heyner explains that he has had heart trouble and his doctor told him to change his lifestyle. They moved here and, as I understand it, he runs an organic farm now – and puts up people like us to make a little extra on the side. 

They grow bananas and plantains, pecans and grapefruit, they have cacao trees, palm trees with coconuts, and amazing flowers. They have horses and cows, and Heyner has two dogs – one of which decides to make sport of a good sized iguana while we’re chatting. 

“Too bad for the iguana,” says Heyner . . .

Before he leaves us Heyner takes us to a cacao tree, has Diana pick a pod (Is “pod” the right word?) and then cuts it in half with his machete. He shows us that you can suck on the cacao “bean” things. They aren’t chocolaty – but they are kind of sweet and fun.

Jenny’s dinner? The best food I’ve had in Costa Rica – by far. Boiled plantains. Love plantains that are cooked like this to add a little sweetness to the meal. Yucca. Also scrumptious. Rice and beans and fresh fish. All yummy. And the best part – she brought me a whole other plate of food once she saw that I had scarfed down the first plate. 

And after dinner we chat with Tom and Katie – a young German couple that are volunteering with Heyner for a few weeks – helping on the farm. 

What a lovely day. 

No tour guide. 

Just Diana’s amazing planning and some random biking with open eyes . . .

Oh yeah. One other thing. After Heyner leaves us in our casa for the night we see yet another monkey. This one must be a howler. Because the howlers are supposed to be smaller and this one is picayune for sure . . . It’s just making its way through the canopy surrounding our cabana . . .

So, to summarize: We were basically winning a stage of the Vuelta for a while – complete with cheering crowds – we saw three different kinds of monkeys, we enjoyed two amazing waterfalls, we saw literally ten scarlet macaws, we toured an organic farm with a wonderful farmer/proprietor, we had a fantastic Costa Rican dinner, we chatted with a dynamic young couple, and we’re staying in our own Gilligan’s Island style cabana for the night. 

Love it!

Our guide yesterday explained that “pura vida” – which is kind of the slogan of Costa Rica – means pure living or living well. I think we achieved Pura Vida for the day!!!

Sadly, tomorrow is our last day in Costa Rica. Then on to Panama . . . Panama advice welcome . . .