Chame – Panama City, Panama
Well, Part I of our journey is a wrap. It being the end of the year and Christmas, it seems like a good time to look back on what we’ve accomplished, to look ahead to what’s to come in the new year, and to count all of our many blessings.
Starting with some statistics – Minneapolis to Panama City, Panama:
- According to my odometer we’ve covered 9,418 kilometers – which equates to 5,839 miles. Now, some of you might be saying, why so much? Google Maps tells me it’s only 4,050 miles from our house to Panama City. I think there are a few factors at play here. First, we definitely did not follow the Google Maps route – which had us taking I35 straight south and then a much more direct route through Mexico and Central America. We went further east to start. We went out of our way to go through St. Louis, and then followed the Katy Trail through Missouri. We went through Little Rock. Through Mexico we visited the Gulf of Mexico Coast, went through Puebla, Mexico City, and Oaxaca, and then visited the Pacific Coast. Through Central America we went through Atitlin, and El Salvador. So – lots of distance-adding diversions from the straight and narrow, shortest route type path. Also, I think my odometer might add a percent or two. Bike odometers are not exactly calibrated to Swiss watch-like performance levels; they’re based on your exact tire size . . . Bottom line. We’ve come a long ways! (See our Wandrer page – for a visual of the whole journey.)
- We have been on the road 109 days, and, according to Diana’s Strava feed, we have had 94 days of forward motion. The other days were spent “resting” (when you are with Diana a rest day is not usually very restful . . .) in places like St. Louis, Little Rock, Austin, Mexico City, the beach, etc.
- Doing a little math – I love my math – we have averaged 86.4 kilometers, or 53.5 miles, per day on the trip. Or, counting only the forward motion days, we have averaged about 100 kilometers, or 62 miles, per day. This second figure is a little off, because, as I alluded to, our rest days also included some biking. But good enough for this purpose – and 100 kilometers is such a nice round figure . . .
- We have covered eight states – Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa, Illinois, Missouri, Arkansas, Louisiana, and Texas, and seven countries – USA, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama.
- We have swam in several northern lakes, the Mississippi, the Missouri, a few alligator-infested lakes, Lake Atitlin, the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean.
- We have met people from all over the world. Obviously from all the countries we’ve been in. But also from Brazil, Argentina, France, Germany, Norway, Ireland, Great Britain, Greece, China, Canada, Columbia, Poland, Russia, Australia, Turkey, India, Thailand, and Italy.
- We’ve seen deer, fox, coyotes, bobcat, eagles, turtles, snakes, monkeys, sloth, scarlet macaws, parrots, iguanas, fish, cats, cattle, horses, donkeys, vultures (whole new appreciation for vultures – the sanitation workers of the animal kingdom), and, of course, dogs – lots and lots of dogs. Roadkill-wise we’ve seen skunks, anteaters, raccoons, opossums, pigs, cattle, snakes, and feral pigs.
- We’ve biked around and through several mountain ranges and volcanoes. The Ozarks, the Sierra Madre Orientals in Mexico, and a bunch of mountains and volcanoes in Guatemala, El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Panama. I think our highest point biking was 12,200 feet – on the Pasó de Cortez in Mexico, but we hiked to 13,000+ feet on Acatenango in Guatemala.
- Since we started our journey on September 6 we have posted 92 reports on our blog, and there are 278 subscribers. Don’t know how many comments we’ve received – but we continue to love your thoughts and suggestions. So thank you for that!
So that’s the statistics-and-numbers look at our last three-and-a-half months. But, of course, that doesn’t capture all of the stories and craziness, and fun, the challenges and obstacles, and overcoming that it has taken to get here. We’ve loved it. We haven’t loved every minute of it. But that has just made the numerous good moments that much sweeter!
Now, looking ahead . . .
The next two weeks are going to be an off period.
We have a week in Panama City to enjoy the holidays, tune up Old Dan and Little Ann, be tourists in and around this pretty amazing city, and just generally let ourselves rest up a bit.
Then we fly to Cartagena, Columbia. We are flying because you can’t bike there. If you haven’t heard of the Darien Gap – it’s this crazy piece of the Earth that modern humans have not yet managed to conquer. I guess it’s mountainous and swampy, and crazy. There are some indigenous people living there, but there are no roads.
You may have heard of the Gap in relation to migrants. I guess migrants frequently walk the Gap. With children it can take a while. It’s dangerous and generally not very fun. We did meet one transcontinental biker who took the Gap under his own power – Felipe from Brazil. He didn’t bring his bike. I think he abandoned it in Columbia, walked across, and then purchased a new bike. But still, pretty darn impressive. I guess it took him a day and a half to complete the journey.
We did read about one group of bikers who tried crossing the Gap with their bikes in like 1970 or so. They brought machetes and stuff, and it took them like six months, but they eventually did make it across. One of them cut his leg to the bone with a machete along the way – and I guess by the time they completed the Gap they all hated each other and the trip never concluded.
So we’re flying.
Once we arrive in Cartagena we are spending a week with our daughters and Ellie’s boyfriend, Jacob, before starting Part II – Cartagena to Ushuaia, Argentina – the most southern city in the Americas. Ushuaia is at like 54 degrees south latitude. Which equates to about 400 miles north of Kenora, Ontario. Never heard of Kenora? It’s a little village that people go to when they want to go super-far north to go on fishing trips in Canada. So the distance is basically like Kenora straight south to the equator – plus a little bit because Cartagena is still at 8 degrees north latitude . . .
No guarantee we’ll make it to Ushuaia – but that’s the goal. According to Google Maps it’s about 10,100 kilometers – or 6,300 miles – so about 500 miles more than we have come thus far. The rough plan is to go through Columbia, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, and Argentina. But we are definitely open to your ideas and suggestions; it’s not like we really know much of anything about what South America looks like – neither of us having been there before . . .
It’s Christmas, so I want to take a moment to be thankful. Thankful to all of you who have helped push along with your positive thoughts and comments, and friendship. It’s a huge boost to us to know that we’re still part of a bigger community that we can eventually come home to. Thankful that we have the resources to be able to do this. Thankful that we have the good health to be able to do this. Thankful to all the people along the way who have been so helpful and friendly and have made our journey so amazing. Thankful to our families – and especially to our daughter Ellie and my parents and people like Craig Rudd, Dan Ribnick, and Karl Nelson for keeping track of our stuff (and my bees) in Minnesota while we’re gone. (Though I must say that after a trip like this you really begin to question the value of “stuff” in the first place . . .)
Which drives me to diverge for a moment . . .
”All you need is your bedroll and a good horse . . .”
What movie?
One more big note of appreciation on my part. My wife. Wow. I love that woman. My friend, my doctor, my babe (do you know how many inappropriate whistles she gets while biking along in Central America? I mean, I assume they’re not whistling at me . . .), my teammate, our chief planner, our chief communicator, and my editor. And she puts up with me every day all the time.
Okay, that’s enough of all of that holiday spirit type stuff . . .
Bah humbug!
Brief review of yesterday’s ride and our first impressions of Panama City.
The ride? Definitely not our greatest. Yes, we did have some pretty scenery. So that was good. But traffic ugliness. Terrible shoulders. No shoulders. Huge interstates with scary on- and off-ramps. And, let’s face it, we were tired. We were tired after, I think, seven straight days of 60-70 miles plus. And we were tired after 100+ days on the road (see above). But we slogged through. Yesterday was only 50 miles or so.
And the ride finished with the Bridge of the Americas – a huge and spectacular span over the entrance to the Canal – where the Canal goes into the Pacific Ocean. That was cool – but it wasn’t exactly stress free. No shoulder or separate walking path or anything. You are just thrown in with the traffic. So – a little crazy!
But I did manage to snap a few pictures . . .
Then, right into Panama City.
The first thing we encountered was a pretty rough area. People crammed together. Clothes lines everywhere; it’s funny what sticks in your head afterwards . . . People everywhere. People asking us for dollars. Confusing streets, not in great repair. Just quite a scene – especially at the end of a long, hot day.
But, just like that we were out of the rough area.
We visited a big market, where we bought a pork roast and some vegetables at some stands in preparation for Christmas. Fun.
Lots to explore. The canal, obviously. The huge skyscrapers – like nothing we have seen in Central America. Really, like nothing we have seen on this whole trip. Big park areas. Cool museums. Big inland lakes and Monkey Island. The beach.
We’ll probably have a report or two as the week goes on . . .
Until then – Happy Holidays!!!
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Nice recap/reflection on your journey to this point. Journey on! Enjoy the holidays and some downtime in Panama City!
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Why did the chicken cross the road . . . . . ?
To prove to the “skunks, anteaters, raccoons, opossums, pigs, cattle, snakes, and feral pigs” that it could be done.
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Love it!
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WOW! What a trip. It has been quite a while since I have posted so wanted to say hey! I have been reading your posts most days. Unbelievable. Have a Merry Christmas and nice rest and break in Panama City
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Merry Christmas!
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Merry Christmas you crazy kids! What a great accomplishment so far and so much more to come! So interesting and well-told. We read it every day.
If you were at home, you would be beefing about the weather forecast, which is 40° and rainy, so goodbye to our little tiny bit of snow cover. (Mark has been up to the hamster track at Wirth).
Sending you lots of good wishes for good progress and health and a happy new year!
Love,
Keelin, Mark, and Buddy
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Good to hear from you Keelin. Tell Mark to keep skiing! Hope you see the grandkids this holiday! Have a good one!
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Merry Christmas you two!
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I have so enjoyed reading your blog every day and continue to pray for your safety as you travel. I have to admit that oftentimes, I gasp at some of your adventures! You two are amazing. Wishing you a blessed Christmas in Panama City.
Cathy Schmit
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Good to hear from you Cathy. We are indeed blessed! 😁 meet Christmas!
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Merry Christmas, John and Diane. Congrats on making it to the nearly halfway mark! Enjoy your time off in Panama City. Your blog is a bright spot for me every day.
Thanks,
Torry
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Great to hear from you Torry. By the way, your sister and her husband were super helpful on Guatemala. Thanks for making that connection!
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Wow, so amazing! Quite an achievement to ride your bike all the way to Panama City! Wow. I never heard of the Darien gap. Sounds crazy! Also sounds like a good call to fly to Cartagena . . .
I hope you enjoy your “break”. And then, wow, all the way to the bottom of South America!
Great, keep enjoying the ride! Merry Christmas!
Scott
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Saw pictures of the family Ultimate game. Looked fun. Missing you guys – and greetings to Sabrina and the kids as well!
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Merriest of Holidays to you both!!! Your adventures are entertaining, informative and inspirational. Life is too short not to LIVE IT UP and just WOW for you again. Much Love; enjoy your “rest”! Franceswise.frances@yahoo.com612-232-9618 cell
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Love the retrospective! What an adventure. Thank you for sharing it with us. Try to gain a couple pounds this week. Also, we agree with vegetable stand guy – Medellín is awesome! Merry Christmas!!
Laura B
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More affirmations on Medellin from a motorcycle couple yesterday. Looks like Florida was fun!
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Glad to hear you made it so far! Your posts are always entertaining, thanks for sharing every day. Hope you both have a wonderful and warm Christmas!!
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Thanks and Merry Christmas!
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Merry Christmas and congratulations on what you have accomplished. Enjoy your well deserved pause. Mike & Mary Cleary
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Thanks Mike and Mary. Great to hear from you. Guessing you are in Florida now. Enjoy the Holidays!
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Our family has really enjoyed reading your posts!! What an amazing adventure. I hope you’ll have a chance to go to one of the canal visitor centers and watch a ship go through the locks. It’s pretty amazing. Merry Christmas!
-Juli Bergman
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Good to hear from you Juli! Yes, for sure we are going to do the canal thing. We went to the canal museum the other day and that was really informative and fun as well. Greetings to Torry and the girls!
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you’re both in my thoughts and prayers every day. Your stamina and search for adventure are admirable, but a little scary at times. Glad you’re taking a vacation from your vacation to enjoy the holidays with family. Our whole family will be together with new great grandson to be included in this year’s family picture. Keep on going. I’m excited to hear what’s next. Happy holidays🎄
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New great grandson. That’s amazing. Have a wonderful holiday!
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Impressive.
Merry Christmas
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Merry Christmas to you and Maria and the kids. Get some roller skiing in for us… 😁
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thanks for sharing. Good luck on your journey.
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Hello John and Diana —
We are very much enjoying following you on your amazing journey.
Best wishes for the Holidays!
Rock and Jane
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Happy Holidays to you as well!!!
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Hola les saluda Noah, que alegría que ya estén en Panamá, aprovechamos para desearles una Feliz Navidad, estaremos siempre en contacto.
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Me alegro de saber de ti, Noah. ¡Que tengas una feliz Navidad!
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Happy Holidays!!! Enjoy your “rest” days and thank you again for sharing your journey with us.
xo
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Merry Christmas, Gringos! Charlie Maternus
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And to you as well my Little Falls friend!
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Hey John,
Long time reader, first time commenter. The occasion of Christmas plus your getting to the end of Central America finally got me off my butt to subscribe and leave a comment. Here’s a couple I’ve been saving up:
Anyway, congrats on making it that far; hope you have a great Christmas! Looking at it raining here in Boulder (nothing to see here folks, just move along). Luckily there is some great skiing a little way west and 5000′ feet higher.
Best wishes,
Terry T.
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Good to hear from you Terry. Diana says you’ve been connected on Strava. Sounds like Colorado is all good. Glad someone appreciated that LARC shirt. Sounds about right. I think we were kind of afraid of the BARC kids. Your trip through Europe sounds amazing. But yes, a different time- when we were younger and didn’t have the resources we do now.
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Merry Christmas Munger’s! We are thankful for your friendship and shared adventures over the last twenty years!
Kim and Craig Rudd
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Great chatting last night. Sounds like things are going great there. Exciting about Leah and Zack. And so good to talk to Hannah!
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Did you see any Chinese (PRC) soldiers on the Panama Canal?
Charlie
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Funny. Haven’t been there yet …
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Boxing Day is not too late to wish you a Merry Christmas or fröhliche Weihnachten!
I am enjoying all your articles, history and daily adventures! Sometimes I am getting Fernweh, a translation not available. It is the opposite of homesickness.
when you mentioned the Bridge of Americas, I felt the Fernweh again, memories when Cap and I saw it, going with our cruise ship through the Panama Canal. I am looking forward to your trip through South America. We have been twice in Ushuaia, just loved Chile, the northern city Arica, the Atacama Desert, the German Community in Puerto Mont, not to be mixed up with the terrible German community of Colonia Dignidad!
I hope you had a wonderful Christmas in Panama City and well earned relaxation and time to prepare for the second part of your trip. Anita and I wish you the very best and continued good health and thank you for all your stories.
Marie-Luise T.
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Thanks Marie-Luise! Now we’re looking forward to all these great things to come…
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What an amazing trip you two have made of this. I do hope you make it to Ushuaia, Argentina. I was aghast to read of all the prisons throughout the world at the closed prison down there. I also seem to recall the prison had different penguins carved in unique outfits scattered all around the inside.
When you get to Ecuador, I hope you are able to visit a home. I did, the house was filled with about 25-30 guinea pigs running around with the door wide open. “Why don’t they run away?” “They prefer to stay inside where it is warm.” Also, our group of 8 shared a guinea pig meal, there was a lot left. Our guide told us his girlfriend would be very upset with him if he didn’t bring any home for her. We ‘graciously’ allowed him to take the rest. Bon Appetit!
Diana, you are a trooper, every picture has you smiling. I want to echo an earlier comment, hopefully both of you will put on a few pounds during your rest.
A lazy Silver Lake Clinic patient
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Hmm. Guinea pig for dinner sounds tough for me…We’re working on the few pounds – or at least I am… 😁
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P.S. So glad to hear you will be flying to avoid the Darien Gap. Not a safe area.
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