The Character and Characters of Andes Route 25

Medellin – La Pintada, Colombia

Today’s ride had three distinct parts.

First, through the city. Remarkably fun. After a mile or so on the roads Organic Maps – our new routing app – took us onto a bike path. The bike path was a little unorthodox by American standards; it took us backwards onto the highway – but on a raised sidewalk. Kind of weird, but it worked. 

(A little parenthetical on these mapping apps. Once we left Mexico Google Maps stopped giving us a biking option. It’s driving directions or nothing. Now, as we have discussed on multiple occasions in the past, we don’t really trust the biking directions anyway. But it is nice to at least have the option. If, for nothing else, you can compare and contrast routes. 

But it is especially nice in big cities – with this morning a case in point. What might have been a miserable 10 miles of stop lights, motorcycles, trucks and horns was instead a really pleasant jaunt through different Medallin neighborhoods. Oh, and one other reason we like the bike directions option is that it gives you at least an idea of the terrain you are dealing with. With the driving directions I gues they figure no one cares because you are, by definition, driving. Because Organic Maps seems to have the bike route option – complete with the terrain stuff – everywhere it has become our new go-to.)

In any case, this morning’s experience, gave us even more reasons to be impressed by Medellin. Cool bike paths. Outdoor fitness parks – that were actually in use – along the trail. And people biking. Which may not sound like that big of a deal, but it is pretty fun to see recreational type cyclists in Latin America. 

Second phase of our ride – up and out of Medellin. Also super fun biking. Yes, we were climbing – a lot! – but there were a few factors that made it fun. 

We were well rested – after not biking much yesterday and getting a good night’s sleep. 

We were biking through all these fun towns and, I guess, suburbs, of Medellin. Definitely not suburbs in the way we think of suburbs in the States. No shopping malls (though we did pass one down in Medellin proper). No big suburban homes. No big yards with perfect grass. Just places on the outskirts of the city.

And we were seeing all these serious bikers and mountain bikers the whole time. Apparently they had all gone out really early and we were seeing them on their way back down the hill. Super fun. Many of them were cheering us on as we crossed paths. 

Which brings us to our first character of the day. Most people we saw biking were heading down the hill – but we did see this pair of mountain bikers who were heading up the hill at the same time we were. With our frequent map and photo stops we saw these guys a few times. Eventually one of them gave me a candy bar. They were clearly excited that we were out enjoying their country. 

As we continue to go up, Organic Maps calls for us to turn off of the main road for a few miles. We look and it seems like a pretty good idea. It appears to be just going the other way around a circle; should be all good. 

The road drops off like another elevator shaft. Well, no going back now . . .

When we get to the bottom there’s a bridge over a pretty creek. This is “real” Colombia. People are living in apartment-like structures right on the creek. We can see a young family washing dishes in their kitchen. There’s a hole in the wall so they can look out – but there is no window or screen or anything. Just a part of the wall of the building with no bricks or anything. As they wash their dishes the waste water comes out a pipe on the side of the building – and just spills directly into the creek. 

This is definitely not Edina. 

We stop and take a few pictures and then we head up. And up. And up and up some more. The road is incredibly steep now. And there are houses all along the road. As far as I can tell we’re going through a town that just hugs this small road. Kids are playing. Cats and dogs and chickens are running around. People are chatting. And you can see directly into people’s houses – because most of them seem to have the door open. It feels a little wrong to look to closely – but there’s really nowhere else to put your eyes . . . and we’re going so slowly as we climb that there’s plenty of time to survey the scenes . . .

We eventually reach the top and – guess what? – the paved road ends and now we’re on a gravel path. Super rough. Super steep – but now down. We eventually decide to just walk our bikes – lest we fall in the loose gravel. It’s basically like going down Fire Tower Hill (for the Chequamegon riders in the crowd . . .) Fortunately, it does re-connect with the main road. 

An interesting side route . . .

But now we’re back on the main road and we see a sign for “Impermeables.” Remember Gustavo from a few days ago? He sold impermeables and we figured out that meant rain suits. We decide to stop and see if there might be any rain gear that will work for us.

Meet Marta. She fetches us two sets of rain gear – which she sells us for 8,000 pesos – or about $2. We tell her about our trip and how we think Colombia is beautiful. Eventually she beckons us down to some tables, goes into the back and brings out maracuja drinks for us. They’re partially frozen and super yummy. 

Marta is about 5’ tall. Super cute. Talks mas rápido. She’s very excited about our trip and we take a picture together and I send it to her on What’sApp. All good. She introduces us to her son as well. 

She disappears for a minute, and then, just as we are heading out, she re-appears. Only this time she is talking about dollars. As best as we can tell she is asking if we have dollars that she can use to pay for her house. I guess a reflection on how difficult it is to make ends meet when you are selling $2 rain suits to make a living. 

Next stop. Lunch. We eat at another combination place. This one seems to be a combination lumber yard and smoke house. Works well. The smokehouse people burn the scrap wood from the lumber yard in order to cure their meats. The chorizo I had was kind of Colombia’s answer to Wisconsin brats. Could have used some mustard – but otherwise delicious. And Wisconsin and Minnesota need to start using more plantains – they make every dish better!

Now we reach the top of the pass and we’re at some 8,500 feet again. It’s actually kind of cold. 

The next phase of the trip . . . 6,000+ feet of descent until we reach La Pintana. Incredible views the whole way down. The Andes do not disappoint!

We wind up at a cool little eco-hotel type place that Diana found. It’s just past the town and on the Rio Cauca – the same river we were on a week or so ago. It’s still a big river and it’s still running fast. 

It has a pool and Diana takes a swim while I sip a beer under an umbrella. Not a bad gig. There are a few young people in the pool practicing their English. Eventually the girl, Juliana, approaches and says hello. Surprisingly, my Espanol is better than her Ingles. But we manage to communicate a little. Juliana is eleven and her brother, Sebastian, is fifteen. They live in Medallin and Juliana likes school – although her brother disputes this. Such nice young people.

One other highlight of the hotel? There are mango trees growing right outside of our room and mangos are literally falling on the ground. We see one fall and grab it and now we’re going to try some fresh mango for desert . . .

Last character of the day . . . Herman. Apparently he is Colombian and has been biking around Colombia for five years. He’s also biked in a number of other South American countries and seems to really like Bolivia. Doesn’t seem to like Peru. Time to start researching the home of the Incas. Because it’s a big country. 

Anyone have any Peru thoughts or ideas? It’s still a ways out – but we’re starting to be in the neighborhood anyway . . .