Perquenco – Villarrica, Chile
Okay, just a few minutes but wanted to check in.
The ride today was amazing. A little rolling – but nothing too taxing. Spectacular views of the Villarrica Vulcan as we rode. More pine trees. More bucolic scenes. Scenic river crossings. And we finished with a dip in the clean refreshing waters of Lagos Villarrica.
I will admit that it was a little brisk this morning. I think both of us were wearing pretty much all of our clothing. Diana even had her puffy on. But after ten minutes of discomfort we were fine – both because there was a climb to warm us up, and because the sun came out and a beautiful day emerged from the cloudy and cold start . . .
But the best part of our ride may have been meeting another biker, Herbert. Herbert is a life-long Chilean who lives in Temuco – but Herbert is half-German because his dad and grandparents emigrated from Germany just after World War II.
He speaks perfect English. He explains that he completed his PhD in entomology in England, and he reads and writes scientific papers in English. He also explained what he does – something about analyzing the olfactory proteins or something in the antennae of certain insects. Basically sounded like something that only the smartest people in the world could understand . . . So maybe Dr. Liu understood; me – I had no idea what he was talking about . . .
The bad news here is that our friend Gunnar B may have fallen off of his pedestal. Previously he was the smartest German PhD that I knew. I guess he’ll have to go back to being the fastest German cross country ski racer from Arkansas that I know . . .
But the biggest news of the day? Well, about five minutes after I posted this morning Diana figured out that the road to Coleta Tortel – Carrera Austral it’s called – has a big gravel section. Like 220 miles or so of gravel . . .
So that has thrown our most recent plans – Carrera Austral to Coleta Tortel; ferry from Coleta Tortel to Puerto Natales; ride from Puerto Natales to Ushuaia – into some disarray. We might still do it – but we have some thinking, and, if we push forward, some doing to do if we go that route.
Doing. Big thing is that we would need to change to much bigger tires. Right now Old Dan and Little Ann have 38s (kind of big – but not nearly big enough) – would need to get something more like a mountain bike tire. We would probably need to convert to tubeless again so we can ride low pressure. And, in general, we would have to make sure we are mentally ready for an even more challenging journey.
We’ll be thinking about this over the next few days – and we expect to make a final decision in Orsono. At this point the basic choice is to take the Carrera Austral route – as outlined, above – or head over the Andes and down through Argentina – like we had been planning prior to thinking up the Carrera route.
Factors. Well, if we go the Argentina route it’s about 1,500 miles from Orsono to Ushuaia, including a trip over the Andes. If we go the Chile route it’s about 660 miles to Caleta Tortel, of which the last 220 are not paved, and then 482 miles from Puerto Natales to Ushuaia – but with the cool boat rides thrown in there.
Tune in to the next episode to find out what we might do next . . .
In the meantime, we are looking forward to an even more inspiring ride tomorrow – including three lagos, a vulcan or two, and some beautiful little lakeside towns . . .
Oh, and if you have some wisdom – or even just smart-ass remarks – on which route we should take we would love to hear from you.
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Diana & John's Biking Adventures 
It is so cool following your adventure! You two are biking into autumn which is normally always such a joy with the cool mornings and sunny afternoons. Here we are getting into the mud season, skiing is sketchy, biking with ice, the same, going from a beauty of a day skiing in a T shirt to single digit lows and taking your life in your hands, skiing on a glacier. I think that I would stay the course and try to avoid the couple hundred miles of mountain biking, but you could look at it another way, since we all Mountain Bike in the fall. Pretending it to be the Seely Pre Fat, Chequamegon, and Heck of the North all together on tubeless hard tails.
John Filander
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Fun that there’s still some skiing. I like the idea of thinking of the ride as a few different events strung together… 😁
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I had a great comment typed out about Gunnar being the first person to abandon Diana in the woods while she’s pregnant, but I decided it was too snarky. Doug
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Funny. Your restraint is enviable… 😀
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about traveling 200 miles of gravel, don’t.
other vehicles will be kicking up rocks that could fly your way.
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Funny. Not actually expecting too many other vehicles on this road… 😁😳😁
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Actual useful advice: bring at least one more layer than you would for the same temperatures at home to account for the wind. Not just velocity but instantaneous changes of direction on account of the interplay of three different weather systems. I was carrying my glasses in my hand so they didn’t get blown away. Also Doug
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This is helpful! Definitely trying to think through layering…
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No smart as comments or suggestions here. Just admiration and awe of your journey combined with appreciation that you are wring this blog so I too can enjoy the ride! Thank you. ~Patty
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Happy to share. Fun to have folks along!
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regarding your route….buses!?!
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No buses along there, but if we really had to we could hitch a ride… 😁
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The Big question is what kind of gravel. Do they run a road grader over to keep it smooth?? Like Minnesota gravel.
Sent from my iPhone
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Not sure on this. We’ll check into this a little. Ran into sone bikers who just rode through there and they were happy about their experience…
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Hi, I am very much enjoying your blog and photos. Thanks for being so committed to recording your ride. My husband and I did a similar trip through South America about 15 years ago on our touring bikes. We, also, did not plan to do the Carrera Austral because it was gravel and we had touring bikes with touring tires. But, after hearing from many cyclists through SA about the Carrera, we decided we would do it and just deal with the gravel. I remember it was one of the most beautiful places I had ever been on a bike, remote, glacial waters, glacial mountains, quiet forests, interesting history, quaintly rural towns, beautiful skies, camaraderie with worldwide cyclists we met coming from and going to Ushuaia …I remembered no problems with the road until a few kilometers over the pass at the end into Argentina. Then, I looked back at our blog, and yes, the gravel road slowed us down. There were some spots more difficult than others. But, I am very glad I traveled that way and I had no memory of those spots, even when I looked at the photos. I did have memories of the incredible scenery and people, however, shown in the photos. Funny that. You’ll have to decide how much time you have and how much patience for the roads. We, also, were there in their spring, in March. As I well know, you can’t see everything on a bike, and if you choose another route, that will be beautiful, too. Happy trails!
Julie
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I concur with Julie. We also had 38s. Julie was on a touring bike and I rode a Cruzbike recumbent.
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This is super useful Julie. Thank you!!! Sorry to ask, but turns out we know a lot of Julies, any hint on which Julie we’re talking about here? Or maybe we don’t know you independent of the blog? In any case, really appreciate the insights!
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You don’t know me personally, though I am from St. Paul and I know we frequented the same cross-country ski trails…and likely bike trails. David Byrne, my husband, has also been responding to you once in-awhile on this blog as we are reliving our trip through your blog. I am glad my thoughts were useful. Best wishes to you on this great adventure!
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Well, I look forward to meeting you. I already like you and your husband!
😁
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I feel like you need to go over to Argentina! I have absolutely no logical reason for that other than it just seems like a sweet part of the journey. Also gravel sounds terrible (though I’ve never biked on it so what do I know?) Whatever you decide, I trust you’ll make the decision and then make that decision right! Buena suerte!
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Thanks Constance. Gravel can be okay if you have the right tires and stuff. We met some French bikers today who just did that section of road and said it was beautiful..
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Thanks as always for the update on your adventures! Sounds like you are getting towards a very interesting part (and it has already been quite interesting!). Good luck, I’m sure you make whatever you choose work out.
I heard this quote today and thought of you guys:
Minnesota, where all the women are strong, all the men are good looking, and all of the aggression is passive.
🙂
Keep enjoying the ride!
Scott
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Sounds to me Herbert studies how stuff stinks. The secret langue one cannot hear, see, feel or touch. Very cool often under-appreciated field.
Gunnar B.
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That sounds about right!
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Enthralling scenery; 200+ miles of gravel??? nope Franceswise.frances@yahoo.com612-232-9618 cell
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Bikes have been around a long time and they work pretty good. It’s only recently that people have become so concerned with tire widths, tubes and pressures. Just ride it, you’ll be fine.
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Well, we may have to do just that. The bike shops we visited today and no different tires anyway… 😳😁
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