Flanders, Spain?

Moncofa – Peniscola – Ametlla de Mar, Spain

Many moons ago, when I was younger and fitter, I cycled up to Hayward, Wisconsin. On the way, I stopped for a second breakfast in the little town of Osceola. When I finished and headed out into the street there happened to be as pack of cyclists going my direction. I decided to join them, on the theory that it’s easier to ride in a pack, and I enjoy the company anyway.

I soon discovered that this was a “Flanders ride.” Flanders is a local bike shop in Minneapolis – known for being pretty serious about their cycling. I tried to start up some conversations, but everyone just had their heads down, grinding away. For good reason, it was a pretty blistering pace.

As we went along, I noticed several riders getting dropped off the back of the pack. I was a little dismayed, because normally, in a situation like this – where you’re riding out in the middle of nowhere – I would stop to see how people were doing. But this obviously was not my ride, so I just continued along. After about 50 miles on the slow cooker I was pretty well fried. And soon I was one of the guys getting dropped. Sadly, I still had another 60 miles or so to go to get to Hayward.

Turned out to be kind of a brutal day.

I have been reminded of this story on numerous occasions this week. We have seen a ton of “serious” bikers in Spain. As a group, I would say they’re the most unfriendly cyclists I have ever met, with the possible exception of the Flanders guys.

There is kind of an unwritten code amongst cyclists that you at least give fellow cyclists a nod, or a wave as you pass. Probably more true if you see people who are obviously on a big trip, like us. The Spanish guys? If you get a disdainful look, you’re lucky. Today we had one guy pass us with his hand up. At first, I thought he was giving us a wave, but then I realized he was just holding his hand out to keep us away from him. (Kind of like the “talk to the hand” gesture we all know so well).

Now, we’ve also seen a TON of e-bikers. Diana and I agree there’s a good reason they don’t make eye contact. They’re kind of ashamed of themselves passing us with their motor powered bikes…

But, really, arguably that’s how all of Spain has been. I mean, people have been nice and courteous and all, but we have had basically zero meaningful interactions with Spaniards. Which is funny, because we actually know more Spanish now than we have known on the entire trip – so I don’t think it’s a as language barrier. Also, I’m pretty sure we have gotten to know more Moroccans in Spain than we have Spaniards in Spain. So, while Spain has been beautiful, I would have to knock several points off of Spain for its lack of real warmth.

But maybe this is just how Europeans are generally? Or maybe there are so many people bike touring around Spain that the Spanish have lost their curiosity. That could be it. Because certainly in places like Mexico, there are not a lot of bike tourists, and the bikers that are there are quite the curiosity. Whatever the case, people in most other countries at least ask about the trip when they see the bikes.

But there really is not just one Spain. In our (very limited) experience there are basically two separate countries here. There’s coastal Spain, where everything seems nice and manicured, and there are tons of grocery stores and amenities, and older European tourists abound. And then there’s inland Spain – all about emptiness and agriculture.

It’s interesting, the inland area seems to start about 500 meters from the coast. From there, there are miles and miles of olive, orange and almond groves, empty houses, and ghost towns. We can literally bike through Some of these little towns at two in the afternoon and not see a single soul. I mean, at least in Mexico people were out selling tacos, and whatnot, or riding their horses around, or blaring music, or whatever. And the thing is, it’s not like these areas are ugly or anything. There are beautiful hills and mountains, and some bucolic scenes – but it’s like little pink houses … where no one lives anymore…

I should probably comment on the last few days of biking. Generally flat and generally along the coast, but still with some mountains around to make things fun.

Yesterday was kind of an interesting day. We have been alternating back-and-forth between the driving, no highways directions and the biking directions on Google Maps. Driving no highways is pretty good for getting you from one place to another, but sometimes is a little lacking in the color department. Pretty much just puts you on bigger roads that specialize in getting you there… Like, “when you absolutely, positively, have to get there” type roads… (What is that, FedEx?)

At the end of the day yesterday we decided that the biking directions, which took us right along the coast, and directly between the Mediterranean and the mountains, looked like the better option. And it was, for a while. Sadly, though, after a few miles of boardwalks and nice houses, the road gave way, and we found ourselves on an undulating, and not very well maintained, gravel road. The scenes were beautiful along the way, with amazing Mediterranean views, but the hard riding was not exactly how we wanted to end our day.

Eventually, we started seeing the next town: Peniscola. OK, now get your mind out of the gutter. This is an amazing town with a huge upright… tower… jutting up above a little walled city. When we finally did arrive – still erect after all those miles – we thoroughly enjoyed the whole city, in all its purple majesty.

Tomorrow? On toward Barcelona. We’ve received some great advice on where to go and what to see there, but we’re going to stay an extra day so keep the thoughts coming…

P.s. – Our wireless keyboard is on the blink. The “g,” the “h,” and the spacebar have all stopped working. Hopefully we can find a new one in Barcelona, but until then things might be a bit abbreviated… Or, we’ll have to use lots of words that don’t have those letters. Maybe we can summarize all of our thoughts with a giant German word? Like: bikefahrtiredtoday…