ADA

Kladanj, Bosnia – Loznika, Serbia

Quick post today . . .

You may recall our whole Schengen Problem.

How we realized that we would run out of our 90 day time in Schengen if we continued on the path that we were on – basically a counterclockwise trip around Europe.

There have been a few developments since then. 

First, we have been hiding out in non-Schengen countries – Serbia and Bosnia – for a while now. This helps – because we’re not burning precious Schengen days. At this point, we figure we’ll have about twenty-seven Schengen days left after August 29 – the day our daughters head back to the States at the end of our Budapest – Vienna bike tour with them. 

Second, after letting our minds simmer on the issue for a few days, we came to the realization that, while we may not be able to do the whole trip that we were originally planning, we can do part of it. So our new new plan is to head from Vienna through Poland, Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia, then take a ferry to Helsinki. At that point we’ll likely be out of Schengen Days – but we can still take a spin around England and Ireland, before returning to London, visiting Diana’s cousin Angie and her family, and then flying back to New York. After a few days in New York, we’ll start on the last leg of the journey – back to Minnesota – hopefully arriving before it gets too cold . . .

There are a few keys to making this work. The most important is Europe’s ultra-cheap Ryan Airlines. Turns out that we can fly from Helsinki to London for $73 each. Of course, we’ll have to pay separately for our bags and our bikes – but even with all that we should be okay on our budget. That’s because we’ll be skipping the Scandinavian countries – probably one of the most expensive places in the world. Also, we were always going to have to pay to get to Great Britain – we’re just trading a ferry for a plane. 

The other big thing is the terrain. Turns out that the trip from Vienna through Krakow and Vilnius to Tallin, Estonia, where we’ll catch the ferry, is about 1,100 miles – with a grand total of 8,186 feet of elevation gain over the whole distance. We did more than that in one day in Colombia! And the last day of our ride to Sarajevo was almost 6,00 feet. So we should be able to make good time – and still stop and explore cool places along the way. 

We miss out on Stockholm and Copenhagen and Amsterdam – but we trade those for more non-Schengen time in some combination of England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland. Really not a bad deal. More pub food. More interesting beer options. Men in kilts. That type of thing . . .

So – with our new plan – please send along ideas for Poland and the Baltic States. 

A little report on today’s ride . . .

Last day in the mountains for a while . . . We started with essentially three shark teeth – that is, three big-ish climbs followed by big descents – which, when laid out on a topographical map – looks like three shark’s teeth . . .

We head out and we’re cruising along pretty good on a fairly quiet country road through the mountains. 

But then my phone chimes in with an unexpected instruction: 

“Turn left in 50 meters.”

Hmm. We’re not coming to an intersection. What gives? 

As we approach the 50 meters I receive a new instruction:

”Turn now!”

And, indeed, there is a small paved something that is probably best described as a cart path. 

This calls for a conference. We stop, examine the maps, and confirm that this is, indeed, the way we are supposed to go. 

“Looks like it will turn to gravel,” Diana says. 

“Well, do you want to go a different way?” I ask.

More examination. But it’s pretty clear that this path represents a significant shortcut. That is, we could stay on the main road, but doing so will likely mean an extra 10-20 miles because the road appears to circumnavigate the mountains.

Onward . . .

We follow the cart path for about a mile – heading past quaint little farms and pastures as we head up the mountain. 

And then, as predicted, the path turns to gravel. 

Well, we knew this was coming – so we forge ahead.

There’s a guy up ahead walking his dog toward us. 

“Hello,” I call – so as not to scare him.

As we approach it’s obvious that this fellow wants to talk. 

Danis is his name. I remember because it’s like Adonis – as in, Adonis Creed of the Rocky movies . . .

Danis knows almost perfect English. He says he practices by watching movies. (Didn’t ask him whether he’s seen the Italian Stallion in action though . . .)

”This road is not good.”

”Yeah, but this is where our phones are telling us to go . . .”

”The gravel gets worse. The rocks get bigger. It is not good for bikes.”

”But I think it’s a lot longer the other way,” says Diana.

”No. You should go back to the main road. This way is not good. I know. I walk this road all the time and I am a biker, so I know.”

”How long is it before we get back to asphalt?” Diana asks.

”It’s about 5 kilometers [3 miles] – but you don’t want to go this way. There are animals back here.”

Now I’m interested. It’s about time we see some cool animals – especially if they’re alive.

”Are there bears?”

”Yes, bears. And wolves. Really!” 

I think Danis is thinking that bears and wolves are going to be an automatic disqualifier. But, again, I want to see bears and wolves. 

Eventually we end up going. 

(In Diana’s world, there is a term that seems relevant now . . . AMA! It means “against medical advice.” 

Here’s an example: 

Doctor: “You need to stay in the hospital Mr. Peterson – because your heart is about to explode and if you don’t stay you’ll probably die.” 

Mr. Peterson: “Yeah, but I have tickets to the football game tonight so I’m going. By the way, can you sign this note that says that I need to be able to park in the handicap zone so I don’t have to walk so far . . .”

Doctor’s Note: “Patient left hospital AMA. When I refused to sign note for a handicap spot he told me was going to sue me.”

In this case I guess we proceeded up the hill ADA – Against Danis’ Advice.)

Danis was right. The road did get worse. Straight up the hill with big baby-head rocks all over the place. 

It was actually kind of fun, really. 

But, sadly, we didn’t see a single bear or wolf, or even a wild boar. 

Still, it was a super fun little detour from our normal roads with cars and trucks and stuff. And, in the end, we did see three non-wild pigs. So there is that. 

Oh, and a cow. We definitely encountered a cow …

The rest of the ride was pretty, if unremarkable. 

The border crossing back into Serbia was without mishap. We’re border crossing veterans, you know . . .

The only issue we have now is that we have to ride about 75 miles to reach Novi Sad tomorrow – and it’s supposed to be raining all day. Sad, again.

That’s the news from the Balkans. Where the Cevapi is excellent, but the animals are in hiding . . .