Abbotsford – Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
Well, obviously we’re coming to the end of our journey. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t more to learn as we go.
Today we happened upon an old highway of sorts. A relic of history at this point, the Yellowstone Trail was the first paved route across America. Or, rather, it was the first cross-continental route that was branded as such. The idea came from a guy from South Dakota in 1912, and the route was completed in 1918. The Trail went from Plymouth, Massachusetts, across the country, through Yellowstone National Park, and finished in Seattle, Washington.
At the time there was no system of numbered highways – so this route was a way to keep people on course. The route was marked with yellow arrows painted on the sides of barns, trees, buildings, and even rocks – like this one . . .
Riding on the Yellowstone Trail got me thinking about a few things . . . Who first rode their bicycle across the country on the Trail? And then about the relationship between the automobile and the bicycle.
I never did figure out the answer to the first question – assume someone did it, but didn’t find anything about a rider like this on the web. But in doing a little research I discovered something more interesting. In 1897, the U.S. Military organized a 1,900 mile ride from Montana to Missouri. They wanted to test the fitness of bicycles as a means of transporting troops – a question which was, briefly, of critical importance – because this was after pneumatic tires had been invented (so biking was somewhat practical), but before automobiles were much of a thing.
Most of the riders were so-called Buffalo Soldiers – African American troops in segregated units. They received their name from Native Americans – who said that because of the soldiers’ dark hair they resembled the bison they used to chase across the Plains.
The riding was brutal. There were very few roads. Water was scarce. They had to go up and down mountains with single speed bikes that, loaded with their gear, weighed as much as 80 pounds. (In other words, they were riding bikes that made Old Dan and Little Ann look like Corvettes . . .). They had to carry their bikes over their heads in order to cross rivers and streams. And they had to negotiate heavy mud all along the route – all while carrying a rifle slung across their shoulders.
Their trip was deemed a great success. Even with the harsh conditions they moved much faster than ordinary infantry, and, for the Army, it was much less costly to maintain the bikes than horses.
The story has two sad endings though – one for the bikes and one for the soldiers themselves. Within a year or two after their journey the automobile rose to prominence and the two-wheeled idea was quickly forgotten. And then, several years later, the Black soldiers were accused of the murder of a white officer. Apparently, by all accounts they were innocent, but President Theodore Roosevelt had them dishonorably discharged from the army. (Which proves, once again, that good people do bad things – because, despite this transgression, the Bull Moose is still one of my heroes for taking on monopolies and big corporate power.)
See This Article for more information on the journey and their shameful dismissal.
All of this, combined with our ride today – partially on gravel (much slower and less fun) and partially on pavement – got me thinking about the relationship between automobiles and bikes. I think there’s a tendency to think that you’re either a bike person or a car person. If you’re a bike person you don’t really like cars. And maybe vice versa.
But, of course, I’m not sure bikes would have ever become a thing without cars. I mean, there are mountain bikes and gravel bikes these days. But your ordinary bike is just not as useful without pavement. And it’s hard to see how the world would have developed this amazing system of paved roads without automobiles.
And that’s one of my takeaways from this trip. The advent of the automobile has opened up these amazing opportunities for people to bike the world.
A little more about today’s ride . . .
Another day of beautiful bright sunshine. Amazing weather for any time – but especially for October.
Anecdotally, Diana and I agree that rural Wisconsin seems to be much more diverse than rural Michigan.
The town we were in last night – Abbotsford – seemed to have really substantial Hispanic populations. The Home Motel was run by Hispanics. The wait staff at the dinner place was Hispanic. The liquor store had a big sign saying that Tona – Nicaraguan Beer – was “finally here!”
The guy at the convenience store we stopped at this morning was a Sikh.
Chippewa Falls seems to have a significant Asian population.
This is in contrast to Michigan – where we felt like we didn’t see a single minority the whole time we were there . . .
Oh, and we finally saw some Amish people today. Or, at least, we saw people riding around in horse and buggies. Interesting to see one come by with four big car batteries in the back of the buggy. Always fascinating to see how people navigate the various “rules” of their religions . . .
Of course, the big news is that we are almost done with our journey . . .
Tomorrow we head to Willow River where we’ll hopefully camp with a few friends and my parents and sister. And then on Sunday we bike the last 40 miles . . .
I promised I would include the route. Here’s what we’re thinking:
- Start at Willow River State Park
- Take Cty Rd. E to Stillwater
- Stillwater Bridge (the old bike bridge – not the new fancy bridge)
- Downtown Stillwater north to Brown Creek Trail
- Brown Creek Trail to Gateway Trail
- Gateway Trail to Wheelock Parkway
- Wheelock Parkway to Como Lake
- Como Avenue to UofM Transitway
- U of M Transitway to Northern Pacific Bridge over the River
- River Road north to Plymouth Avenue
- Plymouth Avenue to Washburn (home).
We will likely leave Willow River about 9:30 a.m. Sunday morning.
Pretty sure we’ll have lunch on the way back – probably home by 3 or so. Can’t really tell you anything more specific than that. But if you start biking out toward us – generally following this route – I’m pretty sure we’ll run into each other . . .
One other thing . . . It would be great if you could let me know if you have a particular blog entry that you enjoyed more than others. Doesn’t matter if you’ve only read three entries . . . If you have a favorite, I’d love to know. Leave a comment. Send a fan mail. Whatever.
Don’t expect another post from me for a few days. But I’ll probably do one more – just to sum things up. Mileage. Countries. That type of thing . . .
Otherwise, it’s been fun. Loved having you along for the ride – and we’ve really appreciated the comments and encouragement along the way.
A little addendum… One more character for the road…
Met this guy at breakfast at the hotel this morning.
He puts us to shame. He was an overland trucker and logged six million miles in his career! never a single accident.
He retired three years ago but then decided he didn’t like retirement. Now he does the breakfast at the hotel and loves it! His smiling face did a lot to get us going this morning.
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Diana & John's Biking Adventures 
It’s been fun following your journey! I’ll miss reading your entries as part of my morning routine. Thanks for sharing and welcome home!
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Amazing journey -wow-so enjoyed following & welcome home!
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Congratulations on finishing an epic adventure! What an accomplishment, something you will be remembering and talking about the rest of your life. Thanks for bringing along the rest of us, it was fun to vicariously join you across the world. Now enjoy home, rest and maybe some comfort.
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Hello John,
Jim Lind from Hoigaard’s (retired) here. My wife Rita and I ran into you at the Guthrie a couple years ago. I first caught up with your blog somewhere south of Mexico. Wish I had seen it sooner. It has been a pleasant semi-daily break for me to live vicariously through your world travels. Absolutely an adventure to remember for the rest of your life. I’ll miss the conversations on how you over-came challenges encountered along the way and the history lessons and the local politics and the people who helped you (or not) in your travels. Thanks for sharing. What’s next? I see a cross-Asia bike tour in your future.
Regards, Jim Lind Minnetonka, MN
>
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Good to hear from you Jim! There will definitely be more bike trips in our future… 😁
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We haven’t met (I learned about your blog from Mark Radorsdorf), but I have been following you since Mexico and thoroughly enjoyed your observations, humour, and sense of adventure. Great writing! Thank you for sharing.
Louise Delagran
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Thanks Louise! I won’t hold your friendship with Mark against you … 😁 Hope Mark will introduce us sometime… 😁😁😁
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THANK YOU AND WELCOME HOME!
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John and Diana, I’ve followed you the whole way and have enjoyed the description of your travels, with your entertaining writing style. I’m not sure I have a favorite post, all of them were good. Safe travels back.
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So funny- I remembered reading about the Buffalo Soldiers and was going to mention it to you, but it slipped my mind-really cool history.
I believe that I read every blog you sent over the past year plus-can’t say that I can recall a favorite one, but I have enjoyed following your journey with my morning coffee (yes, I am back to coffee most mornings since I’m back home…).
Thanks for letting me tag along for 8 great days through NYS! Enjoy your time back home, reconnecting with family and friends!!
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Can’t believe you’re back on coffee… 😁 Definitely great to have you along Jon!
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Every article had it’s specialty, whether historical, geography, weather,, small appreciations to make life easier, your smiles despite pedalling 80+ miles, the moments of anxiety, survival skills, description of food, and finding and preparing the food over fire, stories of your upbringing, homesickness for nut rolls (have to try one) and most of all your love, appreciation and understanding for all the people. You are an amazing couple. THANK YOU AND WELCOME HOME!
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Thank you! What a nice note! I imagine that you are another amazing person we appreciate – but not quite sure who this is … 😁
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Hope to see you tomorrow somewhere along the way! GwenSent from my iPhone
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Hmm. Don’t know. If that bridge is closed we’ll take the Stone Arch. See you soon!
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Oh man, gonna miss your daily posts! (Yup, read it pretty much everyday. Sorry I didn’t post more often, but I suspect you had plenty). What a ride/history lesson! You could turn it into a book. Glad you are making it home safely, John. And your resiliency has been amazing to read! Hope you enjoy a long hot shower, a good beverage and your own bed. See you around sometime.
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Thanks John! Really appreciated your encouragement along the way. You seem to channel Jim’s spirit in everything you do! Looking forward to connecting again soon.
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That was from me, thought I had signed in. Perhaps none of my posts were identified? Oh well. John Owens
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I
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Loved them all. Looking forward to your next trip! Maybe see you on snow.
Sent from my iPhone
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Great to have you along. And I think there will be wiring if some kind coming again anyway…
I’ll definitely be back on the snow! 😁
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I don’t think that I have missed too many of your blogs. What a journey, and what a writer! Thank you for sharing this past year with all of us.
John Filander
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Thank you John! Really looking forward to connecting one of these days up north!
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Welcome back!
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Welcome home! I’ve read more than three, but not all of them. I enjoyed the drawings 😊
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Definitely where my greatest skill lies! 😁
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I think I’ve read them all…. so much fun to look forward to your posts. I’ve really enjoyed travelling along with you! Sarah Page
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Thanks Sarah! We’ll have to get together one of these days soon. I see an occasional post on FB with the boys and it’s so incredible to see them growing up so fast.
All our best!
Talk soon.
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Wow, can’t believe you’re so close to home! Very interesting history on the bicycle soldiers. Hope you’ve enjoyed gorgeous weather today. I, too, have read every blog entry, I believe. My favorites include the one on people build connections when they ask for help and on the pair of reflections at your one-year mark (seeing the world is amazing/the most important parts of life are loved ones and the everyday). Wishing you all the best on your homecoming!
Betsy T
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(pls excuse the typos)
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Betsy – I love that about you that you actually complete your assignments. Really nice to hear about the parts of the blog that struck a chord with you. Thank you for the thoughtful response! And look forward to seeing you and Chip and Marty (and his new sweetheart) soon!
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Welcome almost home John and Diane. I follow your blog and loved reading it! What am I going to do with the free time now that you are almost home. The Yellowstone Trail goes right thru Excelsior, MN. Funny I thought it only went as far as Yellowstone Park. Ride safely and enjoy your remainder of the trip. What will you do next?
Brenda
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Thanks Brenda! We’ll have to check out the Excélsior post if the trail.
What next? Good question – but I’m telling myself I’m going to give writing a run. We’ll see …
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It has been a real pleasure following your activities for the last year. Inspiring. And welcome to Stillwater. Hope you enjoy passing through our beautiful little town.
Welcome home. And thank you for taking so many of us along in your journey.
Bob Fleischman (Brother-in-law of Heidi Jagodzinski Hamilton. I believe you went to high school with her. And while you wouldn’t remember, we met many years ago in front of the Jagodzinski house on Minnehaha Pkwy)
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Totally renege that house. Think about it every time I go by… Was our meeting when Heidi and I were in high school? Fun!
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PS: And because you asked for a memorable post, here’s one that I particularly enjoyed. You told the story of how your dad decided you could bike to Duluth (as a precursor to the MS rides, I believe). I can totally relate, but from the fatherly perspective. I think about the times I drove my own kids a bit harder than I probably should have. The end results, however, much like you’ve experienced, are lifelong loves of so many things outdoors, from canoeing and kayaking to cycling and mountain trekking. Thanks again for the stories. And ride safely.
Bob Fleischman
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Thanks Bob! Sounds like you were/are an amazing father. Not an easy job – and Diana and I have definitely done some of that as well. For sure that trip with my dad was so important to me!
Hope to connect again soon!
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I’ve enjoyed every day of reading your blog! Totally envious of your adventure!!
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It was an adventure, that’s for sure! Glad to have you around!
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I will try to catch you on the gateway into Como!
Paul
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Awesome. See you soon!
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I’ve enjoyed reading every post. It has been very informative. I guess I’ll have to accept that it has come to an end. Maybe you should start a new blog. I’m sure you can find SOMETHING to write about.
Angie R
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Thanks Angie! Thinking that there will be more writing ahead for sure. What that looks like exactly we’ll have to see. But whatever it is, I’ve really appreciated your support along the way.
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Wow, what a remarkable journey! I am a bit sad to see it coming to an end — I have enjoyed the regular updates and insights. Thanks John and Diana — it was great seeing you in Vienna!
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So great to see you in Vienna! And looking forward to your next visit here in Minnesota!
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Great stuff you two. I will really miss these updates, the challenges, successes and laughs for me. Well done!!
Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer
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Rebecca, right? So great to have your friendship and your through it all!
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Welcome home you crazy kids! What an adventure you’ve had! So glad to be able to armchair travel with you!
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I’m doing some armchair responding now. Home! Thanks for coming along!
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Hello Mungers, Thanks for maintaining your blog. Your hard work and enormous time commitment to the project was much appreciated. It’s been great fun following along and traveling vicariously through your adventures.
Jon F (not that Jon F, the other Jon F)
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There are actually three Jon Fs that follow… Thinking this is Jon Faust. Right? In any event, great to have you all along and thanks for the kind words!
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Welcome home; loved seeing you today. We definitely want the stats for the trip.
Susan and Jose
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So good to see you in Stillwater! Really made for a special day for us!
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favorite posts? Diana dancing – where did she get the energy after a day of riding? And you two sleeping in some gas station prayer room – who knew?
Susan
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Good memories! Great to have you along Susan!
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Welcome home! I’m so glad that you made it unscathed. I’ve followed you all the way. It’s amazing what you’ve done.
I want to hear how you planned the trip, what you carried, how you managed to write so much, what the worst and best parts were, what you did with your house during the trip, who picked up your mail, whether you ever considered quitting early, how you avoided killing each other, what you regret, where you’re going next, and whether you’re tired.
Bill Weber
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Sounds like a beer is in order… 😁
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Wow, you are getting to the end of your odyssey. So amazing!!! Congratulations.
Of course my favorite is “don’t miss the bus”. What a crazy story . . . Glad you caught it. 🙂
Scott
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Good to hear from you, as always. Are you back in California again? Looking forward to seeing you at Christmas!
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